Written by
Inbal Cabiri
Just a short ferry ride from the city of Vigo, the Cíes Islands (Islas Cíes) feel like another world entirely. This archipelago off the coast of Galicia forms part of Spain’s Atlantic Islands National Park – the country’s only maritime-terrestrial national park. These aren’t just among the most beautiful beaches in Spain. They’re a living, working model for sustainable tourism done right.
The Guardian once named Playa de Rodas here the most beautiful beach in the world. Standing at the shore, it’s easy to understand why. But the islands offer far more than a perfect beach – they offer something increasingly rare: genuine quiet, intact nature, and a sense that the place hasn’t been loved to death.
The Cíes Islands have been protected since 1980. Visitor numbers are strictly capped at 2,200 people per day – a hard limit enforced through a mandatory pre-registration system. This isn’t bureaucracy for its own sake. It’s one of the most effective overtourism management models in Europe.
The islands provide no large-scale tourist infrastructure: no big restaurants, no hotels, no souvenir shops. Visitors are briefed on environmental rules before they arrive. The message is clear – you are a guest here, and the natural world comes first.
How does it work in practice? The islands don’t supply enough oxygen for large numbers. There are no major roads. Visitors can’t bring cars. Weather conditions are monitored, and ferries are cancelled when seas are rough. The result: a self-regulating system that keeps visitor pressure manageable and the ecosystem largely intact.
This stands in sharp contrast to what’s happening at Everest, the Great Barrier Reef, or even Barcelona and Venice – places where visitor numbers crossed the sustainable threshold long ago, with consequences that are proving very hard to reverse.
Getting to the Cíes Islands is deliberately not simple – and that’s part of the point.
Step 1 – Secure an entry permit via the official Galicia National Park website (required for all visitors). Permits are released in advance and go quickly in high season.
Step 2 – Book your ferry within two hours of receiving your permit, through one of the authorized operators:
Ferries run regularly from May through September. Book as far ahead as possible – up to 90 days in advance – especially for summer travel. The crossing from Vigo takes approximately 45 minutes.
Pro tip: the islands can also be combined with a visit to Santiago de Compostela, about an hour away by road.
Day trips are possible, but staying overnight is worth it. Sunrise on the Cíes Islands is something else entirely.
Accommodation options are exactly one: camping. There are no hotels, no guesthouses, no glamping pods. Just a regulated campsite with basic facilities – a bed, a mattress, and a great deal of sand.
I’ll be honest: camping is not my natural habitat. I’ve done enough of it in my life to know it’s not where I do my best sleeping. But here, it wasn’t a hardship – it was the point. The trade-off felt completely worth it.
There is one cafeteria on the island, and it’s better than it has any right to be. The local specialty – Pulpo a la Gallega, Galician-style octopus – is genuinely excellent here. Simple, unfussy, and deeply satisfying after a day of hiking.
Don’t expect a full restaurant experience. Do bring your own food and snacks. Microwaves are available for self-catering, and there’s a small shop for basics – but the spirit of the place is to arrive prepared and leave nothing behind.
A rugged Atlantic archipelago off Spain’s northwest coast – balancing stunning natural beauty with serious environmental protection. A paradise you haven’t aged out of yet.
Originally published in Globes Shlomut, September 2025
By Inbal Cabiri, Barcelona
Just a short ferry ride from Vigo, the Cíes Islands (Islas Cíes) feel like another world. This archipelago off the Galician coast forms part of Spain’s Atlantic Islands National Park – the country’s only maritime-terrestrial national park. These aren’t just among the most beautiful beaches in Spain. They’re not only one of the most beautiful places in the world – they’re a working model for sustainable tourism, unlike tourist-saturated cities like Barcelona or Madrid.
The Guardian named Playa de Rodas the most beautiful beach in the world. Standing at the shore, it’s not hard to see why. But the Cíes Islands offer far more than one famous beach – they offer something increasingly rare: a place where the natural world still sets the terms.
Between the two main islands, a narrow strip of white sand – a tombolo – stretches with the open Atlantic on one side and a calm lagoon on the other. This is Playa de Rodas. Calm, quiet, almost no tourist noise. Just the sound of the sea and the wind.
The islands have been a nature reserve since 1980, later incorporated into the Galicia National Park. Cíes has a significant number of unique ecosystems: important seabird nesting colonies, fragile coastal habitats, and marine biodiversity that can only survive when visitor pressure is genuinely controlled. The islands can’t accommodate large visitor numbers – they don’t have the infrastructure for mass tourism. But they have something far more valuable.
How do you balance the desire to protect nature with encouraging tourism? The Cíes model offers one clear answer – stricter and more honest than most tourist-friendly cities are willing to go.
Daily visitors are capped at 2,200 people. Every visitor must obtain a pre-entry permit via the official Galicia National Park website before booking a ferry. Permits open 90 days in advance and go fast in high season.
The physical environment reinforces the limits: no roads for cars, no large hotels, no garbage bins – visitors leave with everything they brought. Ferries are cancelled when seas are rough. The message throughout is consistent: you are a guest here. The ecosystem comes first.
This stands in sharp contrast to what’s happening elsewhere – at Everest, the Great Barrier Reef, or even Barcelona and Venice – where visitor numbers crossed the sustainable threshold long ago, and the damage is proving very hard to reverse.
By air: Fly to Vigo Airport (VGO), usually via Madrid or Barcelona. I always search on Skyscanner.
By ferry: From Vigo port to the islands. Book as early as possible – up to 90 days in advance. Ferries run regularly May through September.
Entry permit: Required before booking your ferry, via the official Galicia National Park website. Two authorized ferry operators:
One option: camping. That’s it.
No hotels, no guesthouses, no glamping. Just a regulated campsite with basic facilities – a bed, a mattress, and a considerable amount of sand.
I’ll be honest: camping is not my natural habitat. I’ve done enough of it in my life to know it’s not where I sleep best. But here, waking up to that landscape made every grain of sand worth it.
The large cafeteria near the main beach is better than it has any right to be. The dish to order is Pulpo a la Gallega – Galician-style octopus with olive oil, paprika, and sea salt. Simple, honest, and exactly right for the setting.
You won’t find chain restaurants or tourist menus. Bring your own food and snacks. There’s a small shop for basics and microwaves available – but the spirit of the place is to arrive prepared and leave nothing behind.
Open May through September. Expect 20-25°C during the day, reaching 28°C in July and August. The sea hovers around 17-20°C – refreshing rather than warm.
Fair warning: this is Atlantic Galicia. Our visit came with fog, drizzle, and moody skies that made the whole coastline look like a film set. The kind of summer trip that turns out to be the most wintry one you’ve ever taken. No complaints.
The Cíes Islands don’t just offer an exceptional natural experience. They offer a template.
Strict limits, minimal infrastructure, and genuine environmental education aren’t obstacles to good tourism. On the Cíes Islands, they’re the reason the place is still worth visiting. The beaches are pristine. The seabirds nest undisturbed. The water is clear enough to see the bottom.
That doesn’t happen by accident.Se
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